We arrived around 4pm on the evening of April 1st after only a couple of mishaps (such as our Indian student getting escorted to a customs interrogation room when we were leaving Dubai and her mother subsequently having to drive to the airport at 3am with her old passport in order for her to get out of the country and five of our students' luggage not making it to Malaysia, including one who had a high-dose of antibiotic in his checked bag which led to my co-chaperon Sam having to run around Kuching to find a replacement). But I digress..
Once we got those little issues worked out we settled into our lovely lodge and headed out to dinner where we got our first taste of the delicious local cuisine. We were recommended to a hawker cafeteria about a block from our lodge known by the locals as "Green Hill Corner." I tried the regional signature dish called Laksa (which I thought would be like Pad Thai, but turned out to be a super yummy - albeit spicy Asian noodle soup with prawns and a fried egg on top. Mmm and ridiculously cheap. It was only something like $26 USD for the whole group to eat). Exhausted, we spent the rest of the evening relaxing in our lodge's fantastic rooftop bar.
We stayed at the Singgahsana Lodge which is an absolutely adorable little hostel right in the middle of downtown Kuching about a block from the Sungai Sarawak River that runs through town. In traditional Bornean style you had to remove your shoes to enter the lodge (literally as soon as you walk in the door, which is I guess customary when entering a Malaysian home). It was a little bizarre to me for the first couple days (possible foot fungus - ick!) but is actually quite charming and made the lodge that much more home-y. The rooms were clean and lovely with brightly painted accent walls and the whole lodge was packed with Bornean tribal artifacts. Undoubtedly the nicest hostel I've ever stayed at, if perhaps a throw-back to college-life with the communal bathrooms and boys running around wearing only towels.
On our first full day we started out with a Habitat Orientation before heading to the site to begin work. Our schedule included 5 working 'build' days and 2 R&R days + two days of travel where we had about half a day combined to just explore Kuching. Our first full day was a build day, and then our second full-day we had off for R&R. We had planned our R&R days in advance with our local Habitat Coordinator Angelina, and she did all the leg work of the planning for us, which was great.
On our first build day, April 2nd, we finished work early at 3:15, so then had a few hours to relax and explore Kuching before we all met back up for a group dinner. The location of our lodge was absolutely amazing, right in the middle of downtown, so tons of great things were in easy walking distance.
Meals were included in the cost of the trip for the kids, so Sam and I planned a group dinner every night and we would meet up at around 7pm and then all go to a restaurant together. After working hard on the site for our first day of work, we thought it would be nice to treat the kids to dinner at a nicer restaurant (and these Dubai kids accustomed to Hilton's and Michelin starred restaurants were pretty good sports about the hawker stand the first night). We chose a fusion restaurant called "Bla Bla Bla" which was a little upscale and even had a koi pond inside (quite feng shui and relaxing). I had the vegetable tempura and fried rice with chicken and prawns and then mango cake for dessert. I had so much amazingly delicious Asian food all week that I have literally been going through withdrawal since I got back. All I'm craving is fried noodles and rice. Mmm.
Our second full day, April 3rd, was our first R&R day and we had arranged for a city tour of Kuching, which is the capital of Sarawak, one of the two Malaysian states on Borneo. We figured it would be nice to get to see and learn more about the community we were helping. So after our daily toast and watermelon for breakfast at the lodge, our bus and guide picked us up at 8:30am for our City Tour. Our first stop was the Satok Weekend Market, which I was super excited to check out. It is the best and busiest market in Kuching and is basically a combination flea market/farmer's market, where all the villagers bring their produce and livestock to sell and trade.
After adequately exploring the produce and prepared food area, I headed to the livestock/meat area.
Then after leaving the Weekend Market, our city tour continued with a driving tour through town. The first stop was the beautiful pink and gold Kuching Mosque. Borneo seems to be quite the religious melting pot between the Chinese temples, mosques, and Catholic church we passed everyday on our way back from the work site. It's always nice to see peaceful religious coexistence...
Kuching means 'cat' in Malay, so lots of the sights and souvenirs are geared toward the symbolic mascot of the city. So the next stop on our tour was the Great Cat of Kuching for a compulsory photo-op.
After visiting the Great Cat, we headed to the Sarawak Museum which has two museums in one - an ethnography museum and an art museum. The Ethnography Museum was fascinating with exhibits of cultural artifacts that touch on everything from natural history and geology to archeology and anthropology. I learned a ton about the customs of Borneo's tribal people and specifically the history behind traditional Iban tattooing and palangs (google it, totally bizarre/gross/captivating)... The Art Museum has some beautiful artwork (and really sad yet interesting photos of the Australian POW's who were held in Sarawak during WWII), but was a little bit of the letdown after the volume of artifacts in the Ethnography Museum.
Then our last stop on the city tour was the Tua Pek Kong Temple which is actually located directly across the street from our lodge. It's another beautiful Chinese temple, but I still felt like I walked away not really knowing much about it.
After our tour ended about noon, we took the group out for lunch at a little cafe across the street from the temple right on the river called the James Brook Cafe (named after the "White Raja" of Sarawak). Afterward, we let the kids have the afternoon to explore on their own and took advantage of the opportunity to do our own exploring... Sam and I decided to take a walk on the lovely path along the river and discovered a stand selling bubble tea. It was hot and seemed like a good after-lunch treat, so we indulged and quickly made friends with the woman running the stand. The bubble tea stand became my favorite spot in town and I think I ended up having about 6 bubble teas of various flavors before the week was over. Yum. Who knew tapioca balls could be so appealing?
Then after enjoying our bubble tea, we decided to take one of the water taxis across the river to check out the other side. We walked around and quickly came upon a lovely Botanical Orchid Garden (which was free to enter!), so spent another half hour wandering and admiring all the lovely flowers. I've always found it hard to keep orchids alive, but apparently the Borneans have it down to a science..
After exploring the Orchid Garden for as long as possible, we decided to head back across the river and go cool off for a bit (it was hot!).
So after a day of touring and exploring we took the group for dinner at another restaurant near the lodge called After 2 which was a combination of western and Asian food. Needing a little break from the previous 5 straight Asian meals, I opted for a pepperoni pizza (beef pepperoni, alas, being a Muslim country) and a Sprite float. All of the restaurants we had been going to seemed to all have pretty extensive fancy drink/milkshake menus and all the kids were ordering 2 or 3 of them a piece per meal. Oh Dubai excess...
On Monday, April 4th, it was back to work on the site and time to get serious about the real reason we were in Malaysia.
Eric, our construction supervisor told us that our group would be the group finishing up the house, as 2-3 other school groups had already come for previous weeks and done the basic framing, brick-laying, and roof. Our job was to cement the inside walls, floors, and then do the painting. It was a lot of work to complete in 5 days, but we were motivated!
Then we spent our last day painting the house, undoubtedly the kids favorite job all week. The living space (kitchen and living room) were painted mint green. The three bedrooms were all painted purple, and the outside of the house was painted pink. Very bright and cheerful colors for Margaret and Juar's hopeful future.
Eric, our ever wonderful construction supervisor bought all the food that we had on site all week (and gave the lunch food to Margaret to prepare). Throughout the week, he treated us to various different, yet all delicious, Malaysian pastries for our breaks. My favorites included yummy fried Malay pancakes and donuts, a weird doughy pastry that was filled with peanuts, and some green crepes with coconut in the middle. Mmm.
We didn't end up getting to completely finish the house because we didn't have time to finish the bathroom or paint the trim so that Eric could put in the windows and kitchen and bathroom fixtures. Eric said there was only about a day and a half of work left to finish it, so we were a little disappointed but still pretty proud of the work we accomplished. Especially considering none of these uppity Dubai kids had ever had to work this hard before in their lives (some of the boys on the first day were even overheard saying things such as, "I need a manicure after this!" and "I totally deserve a massage after today!"... Since when sixteen year old boys started getting manicures and massages I do not know. Oh to grow up in Dubai with absolutely no concept for the real world... but enough of that tangent...).
We finished on the earlier side on the last day too so that we'd have some time to relax before our farewell dinner with the family and Habitat crew. So Sam and I decided to take advantage and do some more exploring around Kuching.
We decided to spend some more time exploring Chinatown. We had read about a really good coffee shop that sold local free trade coffee called the Black Bean Coffee shop and also thought there might be good shopping since I was on a hunt for the perfect souvenir. The coffee was a success and we both bought some to bring home. The souvenir shopping not so much of a success, but we came upon another beautiful temple to explore, which was definitely a success!
And after a couple hours of exploring, it was time for our Habitat farewell dinner, which Angelina had organized at a nice restaurant called "Millions." We had a buffet dinner and it was a nice opportunity to spend some time with Eric and Joblee who we had all come to love throughout the week, and to meet Eric's family and also say our farewell's to Margaret and Juar. As a thank you, Angelina presented us all with certificates, medals, and little Sarawak vases as a souvenir. Quite a lovely way to end the week.
So then brings us to our very last day in Malaysia (tear.), Friday, April 8th, and our last R&R day. When we were planning the trip, the kids expressed that they would like to do something outdoorsy and also something to do with nature, so we planned a day-long kayaking adventure with stops at an Orang Utan Wildlife Preserve and also a traditional Bornean tribal longhouse. So bright and early on the 8th we were picked up by our tour company and headed first to see the Orang Utans.
Then after we saw about as many orang utans as we could handle, we left and headed to the Annah Rais Long House, a traditional Bidayuh longhouse that the Bornean tribes inhabited (and continue to inhabit as our guide told us several hundred people still live at Annah Rais) as a way of communal living.
And once we arrived at the longhouse, we were greeted with a shot of homemade rice wine and then given a tour of the house.



Then after our longhouse tour we headed to the river for lunch before our 11k rainforest kayaking adventure. The company we went through (Borneo Trek & Kayak Adventure) was AMAZING and super professional. They took care of absolutely everything and we all agreed that the lunch they prepared for us was hands down the best meal of the trip -- or at least a tie for the best for me with the amazing hawker meal I had at ZE Kiosk on the Sarawak River: chicken satay with peanut sauce, Chinese vegetable fried rice and a mixed fruit juice. I might have been a little obsessed with the deliciousness and utter cheapness of the local food. Mmm...


And as I can't stop raving about, the food was delicious! Chinese ramen noodles with beef in a chili sauce and white rice with shrimp in palm leaves, followed by melt in your mouth dragon fruit for dessert. Just heavenly.


And when we were finished with lunch we headed off for our 11k kayak jaunt. The scenery the whole way was just breathtaking, and I couldn't really do it justice because my camera was in the dry bag 99% of the time. But have no fear, the amazing company had waterproof cameras and took photos of us the whole way and then delivered a cd to our lodge that night. I just can't say enough about how great they were.


Then toward the end of our trip we stopped to check out a quaint little village called Danu that is the epitome of rural Borneo, only having gotten electricity in the last 6 months.

Surprisingly, Sam and I were the only ones of the group who wanted to check out the village, and so one of our guides gave us a private tour, including of an herb garden where he showed us each herb and had us smell them all and guess what they were before he told us something about them. Such fun!
Really our kayaking adventure was an absolutely perfect day, and such a great way to end the trip with the kids. It was a fun way to see more of Sarawak and relax after our week of hard work. I really didn't want the day to end.
So after we got all the equipment packed up, our guides drove us back to the lodge and we gave the kids their last night free to have dinner on their own and get their last bit of exploring in.
Sam had made an appointment to get a tattoo from famous tattoo artist Ernesto Umpie whose specialty is Iban bejalai tattoos using the traditional method (pounding a needle with a bamboo stick). I had never been to a tattoo parlor before, let alone watched someone get a tattoo, so I figured it would be a pretty memorable experience (and also nice to be Sam's moral support). So I hit up my favorite bubble tea stand for a little treat and went with Sam to Borneo Headhunters Tattoo & Piercing Studio.
After Sam got her tattoo, we headed out to a nice restaurant called "The Junk" for our last dinner (garlic bread and Margherita pizza, as I was actually pretty Asian fooded out by that point) before heading back to the lodge to hang out with the kids for awhile for our last night at the rooftop bar.
We didn't need to head to the airport until noon the next day, so took the kids out to a nice breakfast buffet at the Hilton hotel (probably more their speed) so we could have a last meal together and reflect on the trip a bit. It was a great way to end it, before a couple hours of packing and a last minute stop by the river for my favorite bubble tea. I was definitely sad to be leaving, but I was also exhausted and looking forward to not being responsible for 12 kids anymore... What an absolutely incredible, once in a lifetime trip! If nothing else, my time in Dubai has been about taking advantage of any and all opportunities that have presented themself to me, and I am so glad I decided to do this. I just totally love Borneo and am dying to go back (with Jared next time)! Add another place to the list...
haha stumbled upon yr blog while i was searching abt my own city on d web! glad that u enjoyed yr day here.. Westerners like it here as a retreat from hectic city life!
ReplyDeleteDanny Ignatius
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