Once we concluded that we would not be moving home at the beginning of September, as originally hoped, Jared and I decided that we should embrace the best thing about living here and go on a trip for Eid. We had originally planned to go to India for a long weekend, but since we knew we were going to have a 5 day weekend, we figured perhaps we could go somewhere further and more exotic. So we debated the options, looked at some flights and settled on Thailand, a place that has been on both of our lists for quite some time. We planned to spend two days in the south in Krabi and two days in Bangkok. We figured this may be our one and only trip to Thailand, so we should try to see as much of the country as possible.
We took a red-eye through Mumbai and arrived in Bangkok on Tuesday morning, August 30th. In planning our trip we decided the best option would be to have our 'relaxing beach holiday' portion of the trip first since we would need to fly to Krabi and it may be more stressful to be having to fly back up to Bangkok to catch our flight at the end of the trip. So after a brief layover in Bangkok, we caught another flight on a small regional airline called "Air Asia" down to Krabi, a small beach town located on Phang Nga Bay overlooking the Andaman Sea. In planning our trip, we had been discussing where we wanted to stay and I had suggested a cheap guesthouse that was recommended in Lonely Planet. I was actually getting quite annoyed with Jared because he seemed really reluctant to book a place and I was getting worried we wouldn't be able to find a place to stay. Finally about two days before our trip he told me that he had booked the guest house, so we were all set.
Once we got off the plane in Krabi and were walking out of the airport, I asked Jared if we should head for the taxi line. As I started to head that way, he stopped me and said, "No, over here." Well, that was his first surprise for me, of many on the trip. He ushered me over to a private chauffeur who was holding up a sign with Jared's name. We were not in fact staying at the cheap guesthouse I thought, but instead at the five-star Phulay Bay Resort, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve. I was completely floored and speechless. What an amazing surprise! So, our chauffeur took our bags and led us out to a luxury van with white leather interior and lemongrass infused cold towels waiting (it's very humid in Thailand) and bottles of chilled water. I knew instantly that this was going to be a much different trip than I had been anticipating...
When we arrived at the resort, we were greeted immediately by a cool glass of lemongrass iced tea and introduced to our butler Judi who we were told would be taking care of us while we were there. Judi then walked us to her golf cart and drove us down a narrow path through the 32 acre compound to our private beach villa. With each passing moment this trip was getting better and better.
And once I picked my jaw up off the ground, Judi was able to give us our 'welcome treat' called Miang Kum which was basically Thai lettuce wraps, but using bamboo leaves instead of lettuce. She showed us how to properly make them and then left us to enjoy our snack.
Once we finally motivated, we decided that we wanted to spend the day just enjoying all that Phulay Bay had to offer, so we changed into our bathing suits and decided to try walking to the pool. Well, walking is kind of a no-no at this resort because it is so big, being 32 acres and all, so we kind of got lost and then one of the employees called Judi to come pick us up to take us to the pool. Oh well, I guess that's what a butler is for.
After spending a couple hours at the pool, which included indulging in the pool bar (literally - the bar stools are in the pool, with the bar being one edge of the pool) and enjoying the local Singha beer, we decided to go back to our room to check out the waterfall shower before heading to the Beach Bar to watch the sunset with some cocktails.
After we had fully embraced the cocktails and sunset, we decided to go into the little town of Ao Nang to do some exploring and try some of the local food. Taxis are not abundant around Phulay Bay Resort (it is gated, as you'd expect), so we had Judi arrange a local driver to drive us into town. Krabi is a pretty sleepy area after the sun goes down, so Jared was getting a bit sketched as we were driving through what seemed to be the middle of no where. All of the sudden though, we turned a corner and were in the middle of a cute little village right on the Sea. It was a little touristy, but we wanted to check out the local scene a bit. In Jared's panic that we would never get back he had asked the driver to come back for us in two hours, so we didn't have much time. We walked the strip, noticing that there is an inordinate number of Italian restaurants. I didn't know that there is a significant relationship between Thailand and Italy, but who knew? We settled on a small Thai restaurant on Seafood Street and sat on a deck overlooking the Sea. We had to go as Thai as possible, so enjoyed chicken satay, pad thai, and spicy beef. Delicious and with a large Chang beer to wash it all down.
After our ride we got to feed Honey pieces of pineapple. And when I say 'pieces' I mean quarters of pineapple, so that in the end Honey ate about 4-5 pineapples in one sitting.
Then after making friends with every elephant on the compound, we got to go swimming in the river, which was only slightly sketchy, given that we'd watched multiple elephants bathed in it during the time we'd been there.
After our morning of elephant trekking, we were hungry, so decided to have lunch at the Pool Bar before heading out on our private boat tour of the islands. My next surprise of the trip was that Jared had chartered a private speed boat to take us around to all the different islands in the Andaman Sea.
It's a fairly small beach, but the amazing scenery is well worth it...
Unbeknownst to me, Jared had told Judi that he was going to propose while we were out on our boat ride, so when we got back to Phulay Bay, Judi had a red rose waiting for me. We went back to our room to relax before dinner, and then headed out to a celebratory dinner at the Thai restaurant Sri Trang at Phulay Bay where we had celebratory cocktails (the cheapest bottle of champagne was $300 so we opted to save our champagne toasting for when we got back to Dubai) and a feast of Thai food. A perfect ending to a perfect day.
We were really bummed out the next morning when we had to check out of Phulay Bay, but we had a limited amount of time in Thailand, and I was excited to spend some time in Bangkok as well.
Before we left though, as needed to get some last minute pictures of the absolute bliss that is Phulay Bay.
So we arrived in Bangkok at about 1pm and then took a taxi to our hotel, the 4-Points Sheraton. Not quite as luxurious as Phulay Bay, but still not too shabby. After settling in, we decided to take a little walk to get oriented, and ended up a little bit lost. Oh, and it started to rain. Luckily we had brought our umbrellas, but it was a stark reminder that Bangkok had us now.
The rain started to come down actually quite hard (read, it was pouring), so we decided to regroup with a little taste of home, and stopped into McDonald's (sadly, I can now say I've been to McDonald's in 3 continents and approximately 10 countries) for a large fries. Since we had such a short amount of time in Bangkok, we had booked a bike tour and a cooking course (at the recommendation of my uber-knowledgeable friend Beth). We knew that we would need to take the Sky Train, one of Bangkok's multiple forms of public transit, the following morning to get to our cooking course, so decided to try taking it to begin heading in the direction of Grasshopper Adventures, where we were meeting for our night bike tour.
We took the train as far as we could and then got off and caught a tuk tuk to take us the rest of the way. Unfortunately, rush hour traffic was so dense that in the end we had to abandon the tuk tuk and walk the rest of the way, with a little help via phone directions from the tour company. We finally made it and despite some concern our tour would be canceled due to the rain, headed out on our night bike tour just as the rain was letting up.
Beth had recommended we book a night bike tour of Bangkok with Grasshopper Adventures because she said it is the best way to see Bangkok in a limited amount of time. And it was... We got to visit all the temples at night when they are all lit up and beautiful, but when there are no crowds of tourists to hamper the experience.
Exhausted after our bike tour, we took a tuk tuk back to area near our hotel, Sukhumvit, in search of some dinner. We accidentally wandered into the red light district which seemed to be full of the infamous ladyboy prostitutes and strip clubs everywhere, so made a swift exit. I wanted to take a picture, but Jared convinced me that wouldn't be the best idea.
Jared stopped for some street food (Beef Ball Ramen) before we headed back to our hotel to check out the rooftop bar. It was pretty quiet, but a great spot to veg. There was a 2-for-1 beer deal and we ordered some apps to share. A relaxing way to end our first day in Bangkok.
The next morning we had to get up bright and early to take the Sky Train to our Thai Cooking Course at the Silom Thai Cooking School (another recommendation by my dear friend Beth). We were greeted at the station by Nusi, a rail-thin flamboyantly gay Thai man who led us (and the rest of our group) to an outdoor market to buy all the ingredients for the day's cooking.
Once we had acquired all our ingredients, Nusi then led us back to the cooking school (which seemed to be located in his house) and set us all to work preparing our ingredients.
5 Courses, and 6 hours later we left Silom Thai Cooking School completely stuffed and completely sick of Thai food. We had been trying to eat as much Thai food as possible since we arrived in Thailand, but I think our cooking school experience put us both completely over the edge and craving nothing but western food (once we finally regained any semblance of hunger several hours later)...
After we left our cooking lesson, we decided to head to the Jim Thompson House, which was also recommended by my friend Beth. Jim Thompson was an American silk entrepreneur who revitalized the Thai silk industry after WWII and built a beautiful home in the middle of Bangkok that he subsequently filled with his extensive collection of Asian art. It's a unique structure that he built by collecting various parts of derelict homes throughout Thailand and had them reassembled into one house. The house in and of itself is beautiful and unique but it's allure is added to by the fact the Jim mysteriously disappeared in 1967 while walking in the Cameron Highlands of western Malaysia and his whereabouts have never been discovered. Our visit had to be a little bit rushed though, because Jared needed to head back to the hotel for a conference call that afternoon. I didn't mind too much because it was kind of nice to veg a little bit before venturing back out for the night.
After a couple hours of veg time at the hotel, we decided to venture back out and headed to China Town to check out another part of the city. We took the subway to Hualamphong and then took a tuk tuk the rest of the way. We pretty much experienced all Bangkok has to offer in terms of public transit: Taxis, tuk tuks, the Skytrain and the Subway. Both of our personal favorite was the tuk tuk.
And Jared, being the good guy that he is, refused to let me take his picture until I tried a grasshopper myself. I have to admit, despite the initial gag-reflex when you think about what you're eating, it wasn't all that bad. All I could really taste was fried crunchiness.
After our insect eating adventures, we decided to try a couple other (less exotic) street foods from China Town, including some different varieties of spring rolls, which we enjoy while taking a tuk tuk ride back to the subway. It was getting late so we headed back to Sukhumvit and ended up at a 50's style American diner eating pizza for dinner. Not exactly the classiest end to our trip to Thailand, but we enjoyed it.
The next morning we unfortunately had to fly back to Dubai early via Delhi. In keeping with the theme of the whole trip though, even our 9 hour layover in Delhi was memorable. We saw Chelsea Clinton and her husband (who cut us in line at security, thank you very much) and then subsequently ended up hanging out with them for an hour in the airport lounge. I was desperate to talk to her, but Jared told me to leave them alone (I was admittedly, openly staring at them).
We made it back to Dubai no problem and had absolutely the best trip we've ever taken! I am already mentally planning our next adventure... But for now, I will bask in the joy of our amazing trip to Thailand...
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